Hot as summer, cold as winter

By Marisa Romano

A story from an old, cherished, fairy-tale book tells of a young, spoiled and temperamental king who challenged his royal chef to prepare a dish that was “hot as summer and cold as winter.” The puzzling new dish was discovered by a young and humble Bartholomew, who had been spending his days peeling potatoes in a dark corner of the kitchen. His creation not only saved the kitchen staff from beheading, but it so delighted the king that he made Bartholomew his new royal chef.

Bartholomew prepared his head-saver dish by adding sugar to a blend of milk and cream, then stirring the mixture in a bowl on ice until it became cold enough to form a smooth, solid, sweet creamy ball. He then prepared a thick hot chocolate sauce and poured it on his cold-as-winter “iced cream.”

Captivated by the story and inspired by little Bartholomew, ice cream topped with hot chocolate sauce has been enjoyed in our households by young and old ever since.

In reality, ice cream has a tangled and foggy origin. Culinary historians trace ice-based cold desserts similar to our sorbets to the ancient Far East and agree that Marco Polo brought the recipe back to Europe from his famous journey in the late 13th century.

But the milk-based ice cream that we enjoy nowadays was probably invented at different times by several chefs – or their humble helpers – in different royal kitchens, the only establishments that could afford to have ice brought in from the mountains. Young Catherine de’ Medici brought the magic recipe from the Italian Florentine court to France when she married the Duc d’Orleans in the 16th century. About one hundred years later, it was the chef of King Charles I of England who revealed his secret “cream ice” recipe that was served only at the royal table until the king’s death.

Cocoa is a plant native to South America, where evidence of cocoa-based food dates back several millennia. Cocoa as a crop was developed by ancient Mesoamerican populations – among them Aztecs and Mayans – who used it to make a bitter beverage sipped during religious ceremonies. The Spaniards brought the beverage to Europe and developed a secret recipe by adding sugar and spices. The secret did not last, and the hot drink eventually made its way to French and English royal courts and “chocolate houses” frequented by the social elite. With the advent of new machinery during the industrial revolution, the production of cacao powder became faster and less expensive. The addition of cocoa butter to the powder form brought about the solid chocolate bars now enjoyed all over the world.

Ice-cream and cocoa make a delightful couple. According to Chapman’s, the largest independent ice-cream manufacturer in Canada, chocolate is one of the most popular ice-cream flavours – after versatile vanilla, that is – and chocolate sauce or syrup are surely the most popular sundae toppings.

But wait! Heat up these toppings and you have a slow-melting creamy treat. Better yet, spike it with a shot of your favourite liqueur for an extra kick.

A popular, summery pick-me-up in Italy is Affogato al caffe’ (literally, drawn in coffee); one scoop of vanilla ice cream dowsed with freshly brewed, unsweetened espresso coffee or, like the version served at a historic coffee shop in Florence (now viral on Instagram), a cappuccino cup coated with ice cream and filled with hot espresso. Still in Italy, a famous pick-me-up in Turin, capital city of the northern Piedmont region, is the Bicerin, a rich, hot drink of espresso, chocolate and cream served first in the 18th century.

Inspired by all of this, add coffee to hot chocolate sauce, dribble it onto sweet vanilla ice-cream and get ready for a whole new epicurean experience.

With this hot summer and the many delectable creameries churning all around us, this is the time to enjoy generous satisfying cones and bring home some favourite ice cream to dress up and share with family and friends.

Marisa Romano is a foodie and scientist with a sense of adventure who appreciates interesting and nutritious foods.

Chocolate sauce

1 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tbsp white sugar

1 tsp cornstarch

1 cup full fat milk

50 g dark chocolate, broken into small pieces

In a small saucepan, mix corn starch, chocolate powder and sugar. Add cold milk a little at a time while whisking. Bring to boil on medium heat, add the dark chocolate and let simmer until the chocolate melts and the sauce thickens.

Vanilla ice cream with hot chocolate sauce is a classic summer dessert with a royal history.  

Photo: Jim Louter